Pattern repeat measures the design on your wallpaper. It is the vertical distance between one point in the pattern and where that identical point appears again. Pattern repeats can vary in size. The pattern repeat is important to keep in mind when deciding how much wallpaper to order.

Design match describes the way to join two sheets of wallpaper so the patterns match up. The design match for your wallpaper is generally indicated on the product page. There are multiple types of design match, the main three being free match, straight match, and drop match.

When using a straight design match, the wallpaper design begins and ends within the width of the roll. This makes it easy to see where the seams should line up. The match begins at the ceiling line ensuring that the design will match up on either side of the strip. This creates a horizontal pattern sequence.

When using a free design match, also called random match, you don’t have to worry about lining up the design at the seams. This makes free match wallpaper easy to install and great for beginners. Using a free match wallpaper, such as a texture or vertical stripes, will reduce the amount of wasted paper since you won’t have to cut away extra paper to match a design.

When using an offset design match, also called drop match, the design expands beyond the width of one roll and therefore needs to match the strips around it both horizontally and vertically. Offset designs are the most difficult to align and require you to determine which strips will go where before you begin. The half-drop match repeats at the ceiling line on every other strip creating a diagonal pattern sequence. Offset matches also require more wallpaper and create more waste. You would need three strips of wallpaper to repeat the vertical design.

Most of the tools you will need are probably already in your toolbox with the exception of a few specialised tools. Gather the following items:

• Drop cloth
• Tape measure
• A pencil
• Putty knife or straight edge
• Sponge and bucket of clean water
• Smoothing tool (brush or plastic)
• Seam roller
• Utility knife
• Spirit Level

For pre-pasted paper

• Water tray or pre-paste activator

For non-pasted paper

• Paste
• Paste brush or roller

Sizing a wall refers to a coat of paste you apply to the wall prior to wallpapering. This process creates a uniform surface for the wallpaper to adhere. Although sizing is not always necessary, it has many benefits, including easier wallpaper application, increased grip between the wallpaper and the wall, and easier wallpaper removal. It is especially recommended for wallpapering on plastered, repaired, or porous walls. Once your walls are clean and smooth, you are ready to begin sizing.

Cross lining is the process of hanging lining paper horizontally before wallpapering. Cross lining creates a smooth and professional finish once the top wallpaper is applied. The horizontal application helps avoid prominent vertical seams and increases bonding strength.

Booking refers to how the wallpaper should “rest” while the glue activates. Booking allows the paste to penetrate the wallpaper while keeping the paste from drying out before hanging it. Once the glue has been activated on pre-pasted strips or spread on un-pasted ones, you should lay the strip pattern-side down on a flat surface. Gently fold the ends of the strip back towards the centre so the pasted sides are touching. Do not allow the folds to crease or you may leave a permanent mark. Follow the manufacturer's recommended time for booking before hanging the strip. You do not need to “book” the wallpaper when using the Paste-the-Wall method.

Paste the wall wallpaper offers a simple and long-lasting solution for home makeovers, making it an excellent choice over peel-and-stick alternatives. The key benefits to paste-the-wall wallpaper include:

• Ease of Application: Simply apply the paste directly to the wall and hang the wallpaper—no peeling, sticking, or repositioning necessary.
  
• Durability: Built to last, paste the wall wallpaper won’t peel or bubble over time, ensuring a flawless finish.
  
• Easy Removal: It’s easy to remove without damaging walls, perfect for renters or anyone wanting a hassle-free update.
  
• Eco-Friendly: Graham & Brown offers sustainable options, using water-based inks and eco-friendly materials.
  
• Wide Range of Designs: From bold prints to subtle patterns, paste the wall wallpaper offers a diverse collection that suits every home style.

You can wallpaper over just about any surface such as drywall, concrete, panelling, masonry, new and old plaster, and even tile or laminate. For uneven, newly repaired, or slick surfaces, you will need to apply lining paper which provides a smooth surface for the wallpaper to adhere without blemishes. The key to a successful project is correctly preparing the walls.

There are many advantages to using wallpaper over paint to decorate your space. For instance, wallpaper can cover up imperfect or damaged walls as well as add texture and dimension in a way paint simply cannot do. Wallpaper also offers a wide range of colours and complex patterns that would be difficult to create with a paintbrush.

Although it is not always necessary to use lining paper, it is designed to be a perfect base for wallpaper and can help hide any blemishes that might show through thin wallpaper. You may consider using lining paper if your walls have multiple imperfections or repaired spots, if you are using a thin wallpaper, or when we recommend it.

Primer is a protectant/sealer that prevents the paste from being absorbed into a wall and allows it to grip slick surfaces. It is highly recommended that you prime a wall before hanging wallpaper because it creates an even surface for the wallpaper to adhere to as well as makes the wallpaper removal process much easier should you ever decide to update the wallpaper. “Sizing” a wall is a thin coat of paste applied to a wall to create additional grip and make it easier to slide each strip of paper onto the wall. “Sizing” is often recommended for porous, repaired, or plastered walls. However, many combination primer/sizers are available and can be used simultaneously for a wallpapering project.

Using Paste-the-Wall wallpaper could cut your hanging time in half. Since the wallpaper does not need to soak prior to hanging, it can be hung more easily and quickly. Also, you won’t need to set up a pasting table, which can also save you some of the mess and clean up.

The difference between these three types of wallpaper is the method of applying or activating the paste before hanging the paper.

When using Paste-the-Wall wallpaper, the paste is applied directly to the wall before hanging each strip. This wallpaper is made with a special backing that does not expand when wet; therefore, it does not need to soak as in other application methods.

When using the Paste-the-Paper method, the paste is applied to the back of the wallpaper before hanging. This method requires a process called “booking” which is a way to activate the paste while letting the paper rest before hanging the strip.

Pre-pasted paper already has adhesive on the backside of the paper which is activated by dipping the wallpaper into a tray of water. The paper also requires the “booking” process after the paper has been soaked in water.

Wallpapers can be cleaned using dry methods. These include vacuuming your wallpaper or dusting it with a sponge or soft cloth. When vacuuming your wallpaper, use a soft brush attachment to ensure that you do not damage the texture. If your wallpaper is washable, use a sponge lightly dampened with a solution of water and a small amount of dish soap. Make sure you do not get the wallpaper too wet. It is best to have a dry cloth with you to wipe up the excess solution. Finish this washing process by rinsing the wallpaper with a lightly dampened cloth or sponge with water alone. Then immediately dry the wallpaper with a terry-cloth towel. Certain uniquely textured wallpaper cannot be washed. You can test whether your wallpaper can be washed by picking an inconspicuous spot of wallpaper and applying your solution of dish soap and water to it. If the wallpaper absorbs the water or the colours run, it is not washable. Even if your wallpaper is washable do not use abrasive cleaners.

Generally, in order to calculate how much wallpaper you need, use the following steps:

1. Calculate the wall area by multiplying the height of the wall by the width.
2. Calculate the area of the wall you will not be papering (i.e. windows and doors) by multiplying the height by the width of each area you will not paper.
3. Minus the unpapered area from the area of the wall. This will give you the wallpapering area.
4. Divide the wallpapering area by the square footage of the wallpaper you would like to purchase. This will give you the total number of rolls needed to complete your project. However, you will need to consider extra paper for the pattern repeat and extra trimmings.

To make this process easier for you, Graham & Brown provides a wallpaper calculator on every product page. Simply enter your dimensions (height & width) and our calculator will provide you with the amount of rolls you will need to order for your project.

We've taken the design repeat into consideration when calculating how many rolls you will need.

Anyone who has ever underestimated this decorating challenge will tell you how easy it is to accidentally make a little mistake that ends up making a big impact. From batch numbers to offcuts, hanging patterned wallpaper can be a little trickier than hanging paper that has a plain design, but it’s easy enough if you follow our simple guide.

Here are our top tips for ensuring your day of decorating goes exactly to plan.

Choose a style you’re comfortable with

If you’re a complete wallpapering novice, it might not be a good idea to choose a design that displays an intricate pattern. 

Wonky wall woes

Surprisingly, your house won’t have been built as accurately as you may think. The walls you’re about to cover may slope slightly, altering what you think looks straight half way through hanging your wallpaper. This is completely normal, and it’s just the way houses settle once they’ve been built, and luckily for you, there’s a simple way around it!

To combat wonky walls, make sure that before you start applying the wallpaper you draw a guideline with a spirit level. This may leave space at the top and bottom of your wallpaper, but don’t worry, you can simply paint an inch wide white strip that will help to hide any ends that don’t quite match up.

How much wallpaper do you need?

This is a frequently asked question that doesn’t have a straightforward answer. How much wallpaper you’ll need all depends on the size of your walls, pattern on the paper and how many windows and doors you’ll be avoiding.

Simply use the roll calculator found on every product page to see how many rolls you need.

Working out how much wallpaper you need is important, as you’ll want to ensure you’re getting the exact same batch. Getting half way through your decorating only to realise you need more paper is more than a little frustrating.

Paper that isn’t from the same batch may not match up with the wallpaper that’s on your walls and could also be a slightly different colour. When buying online, we ensure your batch numbers are all the same, but many people don’t think to double-check when buying wallpaper in store.

Where to start?

Your first sheet should be four inches longer than necessary to assist in lining up the pattern. When applying the first sheet you should take your time to smooth out any bubbles and bumps that could impact the finishing look.

Cut into the excess paper with a sharp knife to ensure a clean cut. It’s best to do this once the paper is dry as the drag of the knife along damp paper could cause rips and tears.

What to do with excess paper

Ooops! You’ve ordered a little extra paper or simply have quite a few offcuts from navigating windows and doors. That’s ok, there are plenty of ways you can use wallpaper away from the walls. Lining cupboards and framing extra cut-offs are amongst the hundreds of ways you can make use of any leftovers.

Introduction

Hanging wallpaper can make a big impact on your room depending on the colour and the design. As walls and corners aren't often straight, don't rely on them as a guide when you hang paper.

Where to start wallpapering

Ideally begin at the corner and hang your first length of paper on a wall with no doors or windows. That way, you can hang a full length from the ceiling to the top of the skirting-board.

Choose a wall to the right of the window if you're right-handed or to the left if you're left-handed. Also, it's best to work away from the window, so the paper edges don't cast a shadow if they overlap slightly. And try to avoid having to hang narrow strips against a window or door. If necessary, cut the first length in half vertically along the edge that'll overlap the corner.

Last but not least, if your wallpaper has a large pattern, it's a good idea to hang the first length over a fireplace or other focal point. Then work away from it in both directions to make the design central and symmetrical. Complete this area before papering the rest of your room.

How to hang the first length of wallpaper

It makes sense to take your time when hanging wallpaper. Be particularly careful with the first length - it's important to get that one straight.

Top tip - Wall plug markers

Unscrew all your wall fixings before you start papering, but leave the wall plugs in place. Mark the position of each one by pushing a matchstick (with the head broken off) into the plug, leaving it slightly proud.

As you hang your paper, bring it over the marked position and press the paper onto the matchstick to pierce the paper.

Then smooth the paper with a paperhanging brush. When the paper is quite dry, remove the matchstick and replace the fitting.

Top tip - Keeping your scissors clean

Occasionally dip your wallpaper scissors into a jar of clean, warm water to loosen the build-up of paste.

Step 1

To position your first length of wallpaper, use a plumb line or spirit level to draw a line from ceiling to skirting board, 480mm out from the corner. This allows a 50mm overlap onto the window wall.

Step 2

Place your first pasted length at the top of the wall with its right-hand edge running down the vertical line. It's easier if you can keep the left-hand edge of the paper off the wall.

Try to leave about 50mm of excess paper above the top of the wall for trimming. Hold the paper at both sides and make sure you don't let the lower paper drop suddenly as it could tear or stretch.

Step 3

After you've lined-up the right-hand edge, smooth the paper down with a paper-hanging brush. Work from the centre of the paper out to the edges, checking there are no bubbles and that the edge stays bang on the pencil mark.

Step 4

With the first length in place, crease the top and bottom of the paper against the ceiling and skirting board junctions. Gently pull the paper away from the wall and cut along the creases with wallpaper scissors. Then brush the trimmed edges back into place.

Step 5

Fit the next length against the previous one, matching the pattern at eye level. When you've got two or three pieces in place, run the seam roller lightly down the joins. But be careful not to press down too heavily on textured paper or you'll flatten the pattern.

How to wallpaper in internal corners

When you're papering in corners, it's much easier to cut a length of paper vertically and position the join at the corner, especially when your wall is slightly crooked or your corner isn't completely square. Measure and cut the paper so that it reaches slightly beyond the corner. If the off-cut of paper is half a width or more, then use it as the next length. If it's even smaller, start with a new length.

Top tip - Uneven walls

If the lines and angles of your walls are uneven, it may be better to choose a plain paper or one with a small, frequently repeated pattern. In particular you should avoid striped papers as these can make irregularities very obvious. Alternatively, you can wallpaper a single feature wall.

Step 1

Measure the distance between the edge of the last length you've hung and the corner at the top, bottom and middle of the wall. Use the widest measurement and allow an extra 25mm for turning onto the next wall. Cut a length of paper to this width.

Then paste and hang the cut length and fit the paper to the edge of the previous strip, aligning the pattern at eye level. Allow the extra 25mm to stick lightly to the next wall, and use a paper-hanging brush to smooth the paper into the internal corner.

Step 2

Make sure the paper's firmly pressed against the wall by running the seam roller along its edge. Wipe any excess paste from the roller before it dries. If you spot any creases, tear the paper and overlap the pieces so they lie flat - a tear will show less than if you cut the paper (although it's better to cut vinyl paper).

Step 3

Hang the plumb line on the next wall at a distance from the corner that's either the width of the full paper roll or your offcut (whichever you're using). Make some pencil marks behind the vertical line at intervals down the wall. This will give you a completely vertical edge for starting the next wall.

Step 4

Hang the next length with its right-hand edge aligned with the pencil marks and overlap the paper turned from the previous wall. If your paper is patterned, match the two pieces as closely as you can and use border adhesive along the overlapping strip.

How to wallpaper in external corners

You'll often find that walls and corners aren't completely straight or at perfect right-angles. If this is the case, you should position an overlapping join at an external corner.

Step 1

Start by measuring from the edge of the last full width to the corner, and allow an extra 25mm for the turn onto the next wall. Cut a length of wallpaper to this width. Then hang it as far as the corner and bend the excess paper around the corner onto the next wall.

Step 2

Use a plumb line to get a vertical start on the next wall and lay the paper over the overlapping section of the previous length. Then stick it with border adhesive, which is much better than walppaper paste for sticking paper to paper.

Step 3

A mismatched pattern is more obvious on an external corner, so you'd be better doing this with small repeated patterns or plain wallpaper. The overlap will also show up more if you're using textured or flock papers.

Small tears in your wallpaper are repairable! Wallpaper scraps can be used as a patch. Begin by removing any rough edges around the tear with a utility knife. Then cut a piece of wallpaper slightly bigger than the area you are trying to repair, make sure the pattern matches exactly, and cover the torn area with the patch. Use your knife to cut out a shape through the patch piece and the wallpaper underneath. The shape should be larger than the torn area. Now remove the underneath wallpaper that was cut out by your new shape. Apply paste to or activate the adhesive on the patch and fit it into the shape cut out of the wallpaper. Wipe away excess adhesive and smooth the wallpaper surface.

It’s easy to overlook the ceiling when you decorate, but the truth is that a beautifully patterned wall above you can create a mesmerising interior impact. Wallpapering your ceiling is much easier than you may think, so there’s no excuse for neglecting it.

Our handy tips make it a simple process, even for novices. Here’s our top tips for getting it right first time.

Turn off your electric

You’re going to be removing light fittings to make wallpapering around them much easier, so don’t forget to put your own safety first.

Even surface

Make sure you’ve got plenty of sandpaper at the ready. Ceilings can be notorious for uneven finishes, especially if you've had to revamp a textured plaster finish. Our Superfresco Easy range does help to hide any bumps you may have, but it’s still worth making the ceiling as smooth as you can.

Create a pathway

Mark out the width of each wallpaper drop, minus two inches for overlap. Use a light pencil outline to highlight where each section is to be applied.

A textured ceiling doesn’t have to look old-fashioned. The beauty and ease of applying our wallpaper means you can create whatever look you want, without the time consuming chore of replastering your ceiling.

Giving your home a brand new look is exciting, but in your haste have you considered whether or not your plaster is ready to accommodate your wallpaper?

If you fail to give the plaster enough time to dry, you could have major problems further down the line. That being said, plastering methods have evolved over the years, and it’s easy for homeowners to be fed false or outdated information. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t always have to wait ages for your plaster to be ready. Read on and you’ll find out why.

The art of plastering has been around for thousands of years and it’s thought that the famous Egyptian pyramids display evidence of this decorating process.

As we’ve already alluded to, things have changed and it would be foolish for homeowners to think that there’s one single generic way to hang wallpaper on new plaster. Much depends on the thickness of your plaster. In the past, you’d expect your plasterwork to be around an inch thick, so it could take weeks, if not months, to dry.

In older homes in particular, you will find that thicker plaster dries in stages and this is where many decorators come unstuck. Just because the top layer of the plaster looks and feels dry, it doesn’t mean that the layers underneath are ready to go.

Moisture can continue to seep through, and you could be left with peeling or bubbled wallpaper, or even mould. This is not a good look!

However, it’s now far more common for walls to be “skimmed”, rather than coated in an inch-thick layer of plaster. If this is the case, the plaster will dry out far more quickly - maybe in a matter of days - so you can get cracking with your decorating project sooner than you may have thought. If you’ve done the plastering yourself, check the instructions on the product you’ve used to see how long it will take to dry. Don’t be tempted to speed up the process by putting your heating on high or standing next to the wall with a hair dryer. Plaster that dries at different temperatures is prone to cracking, so be patient and let it dry out naturally!

Sizing your walls

This is a quick, easy and extremely important step that many homeowners forget about. You should coat your walls in a sizing solution, which essentially acts as a barrier to ensure your wallpaper paste isn’t absorbed by the plaster.

You can easily make the watered-down paste mixture yourself (check the instructions on the packet). This seals your new plaster and allows for sufficient manoeuvrability when you come to position your wallpaper, which is particularly handy for traditional wallpapers that require you to paste each sheet before hanging.

Once you’re sure your plaster has completely dried (little signs such as condensation on your windows will help you determine when it is ready to go) and you’ve sized your walls, you can finally get down to the fun part - giving your room the perfect look.

Graham & Brown’s wallcoverings - especially from our Superfresco Easy range - are thick and made to last, making them ideal for covering up any blemishes in your walls.

Superfresco Easy is designed to be as durable as possible and is also easy to apply, with users pasting the wall rather than the paper itself. This cuts your decorating time in half. It’s also far easier to remove than traditional wallpaper, which is handy if you decide to go for a new look in a few years’ time.

Don’t just assume that you cannot touch your walls for months after they have been plastered. Times have changed!

When using the Paste-the-Wall or Paste-the-Paper methods, it is common to find excess paste on your ceilings and baseboards. This can be easily removed with a wet sponge and clean water.

Wallpaper seams should not overlap but instead should be “butted” together. The two edges of the wallpaper should be touching but not overlapping. A seam roller is a tool that can be used to seal the wallpaper seams and help smooth any edges that have lifted. Do not roll the seams too aggressively or you will push out all the adhesive.

Tackling those pesky doors and light switches that get in the way of your wallpaper is a common annoyance of all DIY interior designers. Whilst often small, these obstacles should never be underestimated, as failure to prepare could end in plenty of wasted paper and a bad finished look.

When you’re putting the effort into redecorating your home, you want everything to be perfect so you can be proud of it. You certainly shouldn’t let these unavoidable elements ruin all of your hard work. Here’s our guide to wallpapering around tricky obstacles.

How to wallpaper around light switches and plug sockets

Wallpapering around plug sockets and light switches may be tricky, but we’ve got a 5-step process that will give you a flawless finish.

1. Turn off your electricity. We’ll be removing the light switch cover to tuck spare paper underneath and it is imperative that you follow appropriate safety measures.
2. Hang your wallpaper as normal and gently lay the paper across the wall until you meet your light switch/socket. Let the paper hover over the socket and cut an X shape across the switch, but leave a cm gap before each corner of your switch.
3. Cut off the extra flaps of wallpaper, leaving a border around your switch. Using smaller scissors, continue the original cuts to the corner. This should leave you with smaller flaps that you can peel back to reveal the full socket.
4. Double check that your electricity supply is switched off and unscrew the switch setting. You don’t need to unscrew the switch all the way, just open it enough to slot the smaller paper flaps underneath.
5. Screw the switch back in place and you’ll be able to enjoy a seamless finish. Many decorators choose to leave the paper flaps along the side of the switch, which is a good alternative for sockets that cannot be removed.

How to wallpaper around windows and doors

This tutorial is so easy, you can do this all by yourself. Wallpapering the architrave of your home takes patience and time, but here’s our easy 4-step guide to make it a little easier for you.

1. Begin hanging your drop of wallpaper.
2. Once you reach the corner of the architrave, tuck the wallpaper inwards slightly to create a dip. Don’t press on too hard as you may risk ripping the paper, particularly if it is wet.
3. When you have smoothed the top down and eased away any air bubbles, you can easily cut away the excess, leaving a slight flap to run over. This extra wallpaper will help you to line up your next drop. Keeping your wallpaper straight on an architrave is notoriously difficult, but allowing the paper to run over slightly gives you a guide. Alternatively you could use a spirit level to create an accurate line to work with. 
4. Continue hanging your wallpaper as normal and you will find that once you have reached the other end of your window, aligning your pattern correctly will be much easier.

Although it may take a little extra care and attention, once the job is finished you’ll have that beaming ‘I made this’ feeling. All your efforts will certainly pay off once you can relax in your freshly-designed room.

Damaged drywall is common when removing old stubborn wallpaper. It is important to repair the drywall before you begin hanging your new wallpaper. You will want to remove any loose edges with a utility knife and sand the areas with a fine-grit sandpaper. After the area is sanded and wiped clean, you can apply a primer recommended for repairing drywall. Depending on the level of damage you may need to “skim coat” your walls to smooth out imperfections after removing old wallpaper.

Time for drying can depend on the type of wallpaper and the condition of the room. The average time for drying is somewhere between 24-48 hours. However, some wallpapers can take up to two weeks before the adhesive is completely dry and set. If you are waiting for wallpaper to dry before painting or adding a border, it is recommended to wait at least 36-48 hours before starting either of these processes.

Wallpaper hangs best when walls are clean of debris and the surface is smooth. It is important to take the time to remove old wallpaper, fill in any cracks, and repair imperfections in the walls surface. This will help the wallpaper to lay flat and avoid potential problems with the paper adhering to the wall. If it is a painted wall, you will need to smooth out the walls with sandpaper. Once all repairs have been made and your walls are smooth, you will want to clean them up. Use a sponge and a little soap to remove dirt and grease. Rinse the wall with clean water and allow the wall to dry before proceeding. When walls are clean and smooth you are ready for the next step which depending on your project may include sizing, priming, or installing lining paper.

Unsightly wallpaper seams can be avoided by following the proper procedures for “booking” and smoothing wallpaper. “Booking” helps wallpaper to evenly absorb the moisture that activates the adhesive so you don’t have to worry about wallpaper shrinking up while it sets. A wallpaper smoothing tool should be used after you hang each strip. This will help the seams line up and smooth out the paper. A seam roller can also help seal and set wallpaper seams. It is important to know if you choose a grasscloth or natural fibre wallpaper, that seams will show because the natural fibres do not create perfect seams. This is actually a style choice and one reason why coverings like grasscloth are popular with decorators who are looking to create a natural and textured look in their space.

It is not recommended to apply new wallpaper over old wallpaper. Doing so could cause bubbling in the underlying wallpaper and old patterns showing through your new paper. It’s best to remove old wallpaper before applying new wallpaper especially when dealing with non-breathable vinyl-coated papers which could result in mould and mildew build up between the layers. Even the most stubborn wallpaper can be removed with the proper wallpaper removal solution, perforations tools, and some hard work.

Introduction

Walls almost always need some surface preparation before you can start painting. Even brand-new plaster needs sealing. You should fill any cracks and holes and make sure all surfaces are clean, smooth and dry. You can paint over emulsion-painted surfaces that are in good condition, but make certain you strip back or sand off any peeling paint.

Safety first

Always wear a dust mask while you're sanding. With old paint, there can be an extra risk of breathing in poisonous lead dust. If you're in any doubt, use a simple lead testing kit. If there is lead, use a specially formulated liquid sander instead. It's also a good idea to put on some safety goggles to protect your eyes.

Also remember to wear protective goggles and masks when cutting or sawing metal. Clear away all metal dust and small pieces before starting work again.

Preparation

The difference between a good and bad paint job usually depends on how carefully you prepare the surface.

No paint can properly mask grubby or uneven surfaces, so make sure you remove any dirt, grease and loose or flaking material, fill any holes and repair defects. There may even be areas that need touching up on new surfaces.

Washing your surface

You should always wash a previously painted surface before painting over it. The less dirt or grease on a surface, the better your final paint job will look.

Grease, nicotine stains, children's drawings and finger marks can all be taken off with sugar soap. Some sugar soaps come in a dissolvable powder or pre mixed liquid form.

Ensure you wear safety goggles and gloves when using sugar soap as it can irritate your skin.

Apply this with an old (clean) paintbrush or sponge, working into the surface as if you were washing the dishes. Leave the solution for a few minutes before rinsing off with clean tap water and sponge. Not only does the sugar soap clean the surface, it also provides a better surface for the paint to adhere to

In older houses, you still sometimes find distemper. This old-fashioned emulsion is often dusty or powdery to the touch, and rubs off as you wash the surface. It's not a good idea to paint or wallpaper over it, as neither will stick. Instead, try to wash and scrape off as much as possible, and then seal the wall with a stabilising solution.

Sanding down

Sanding creates a smooth, even foundation that massively improves your final finish. It also gives a slight roughness (known as a 'key') that helps primer or paint to adhere to. On stripped plaster, sanding can level out any repairs and remove stubborn traces of old wallpaper or paste. 

When sanding the surface of the walls use a smaller grade/grit of paper. The grades of wallpaper are based around the finish you are aiming for. For example a 70 grade paper is great for quickly removing excessive debris; however it will leave a rough surface. A higher grade will give a finer finish on more delicate surfaces. For this task we would recommend a multi-purpose sandpaper such as a 70 grade, we also offer mix grade sandpaper packs which are great for a variety of different projects.

When sanding, use a sanding block and wrap the sandpaper around it, this will ensure you cover an even surface. Sand the surface in circular motions covering all areas. If you are smoothing rough surfaces, run your hand over the area to check if it’s smooth and matches the rest of the area.

When sanding wood, try to work in the direction of the grain. Work from a lower grade sandpaper and finish with a higher one. This will create a smoother finish to paint over. Sanding wood creates a lot of dust, so make sure you wear a dust mask and eye protection, have plenty of ventilation and cover anything vulnerable with dust sheets. When you've finished, you'll also need to dust down the whole sanded surface from ceiling to floor, and vacuum it thoroughly. If you don’t, you risk wood particles sticking to freshly painted surfaces.

Priming

You won't need to prime a surface that's been painted before and is in good condition - washing and light sanding are usually enough. However, if the surface is stained with nicotine you may want to consider using a specialist primer. If the wall is freshly plastered, you will need to apply a layer of primer before you paint your final coat of colour.

On a porous surface, primer stops the top coat from being absorbed, so you need fewer coats of paint to get a good coverage. On non-porous, shiny surfaces, paint often won't bond properly - so the primer gives it something to stick to. As different surfaces need different primers, make sure you choose the right one and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Water-based primers tend to give off less odour and are less damaging to the environment.

Choose a primer that will relate to your final colour, for example if your final coat will be a natural white, use a white primer. Similarly if your final colour will be a dark red, use a grey primer, this will help create an accurate final colour. Applying your primer layer is the same as if you were painting normal emulsion paint. Take your time applying even layer with a brush or roller. Work in sections across the surface and allow plenty of time for the paint to thoroughly dry as per the products instructions.

Priming for different surfaces

There are specific primers for different surfaces and applications

• Multi-purpose primers
• Wood primers
• Metal primers
• Radiator primers – these are heat resistant which is very important
• Plaster sealers – specific to newly fitted plaster board
• Specific surface primers – these can include tile primers, radiator primers and PVC primers

How to strip wallpaper

Before you begin any preparation or decoration work, it's best to clear the room as much as you can. Move any items that need to stay into the centre of the room and cover them with dust sheets. Use dust sheets to protect the floor, too.

It's also a wise move to soak the paper on the wall with hot water, as this makes it much easier to remove. You'll find the water soaks in more easily if you cut the paper first by scoring it with the blade of a stripping knife, or you could run an orbital scorer over the surface. But make sure your stepladder is stable when you're tackling the higher sections.

Top tip - Wallpaper stripper solution

Specially formulated wallpaper stripper solution will help you remove the paper without steaming.

Step 1

Start by running an orbital scorer over the paper, taking care not to damage the plaster behind it. Fill a bucket with hot water, adding some liquid detergent and a handful of wallpaper paste to thicken it a little.

Step 2

Wet the wall with a large sponge, covering a few square metres at a time, and leave it to soak in for at least five minutes. Then slide the edge of a wide stripping knife under the paper at a seam to see if it's ready to be stripped. It should come away in fairly large sections. If this doesn't happen even after a long and thorough soak, you'll need to use wallpaper stripper or a steam stripper.

Step 3

Hold the stripper pad at the bottom of a length of wallpaper for a minute or so until the paper around it appears damp. Then move the pad up onto the next section while pulling off the damp paper below - loosening stubborn areas with a stripping knife. Strip each length from bottom to top, being really careful not to damage the plasterboard or plaster with the blade of your stripping knife.

How to strip cork tiles

Removing cork tiles is easy - you just lever them off the wall with a large stripping knife. The problem is the adhesive they leave behind, that's still firmly attached to the wall.

The best way to get rid of this is to soften it with an electric hot-air gun (also known as a hot-air stripper). It's much safer than a blowtorch, because there's no naked flame - it simply blasts hot air. Scrape the adhesive from the surface while it's still soft, using the stripping knife.

When you reach a door/window frame, allow the paper to hang over the door or window while you smooth the paper until it meets the door/window frame. Once the area is smoothed, cut off the paper that hangs over the door/window, leaving only a few inches for trimming. You will want to make a diagonal cut in the paper at the corner of the door/window frame, allowing the paper to lay flat at the edge of the frame. Smooth the paper down around the corner. Use your putty knife and a sharp blade to trim the excess paper around the door/window frame.

Lining paper can be hung in two directions, vertically and horizontally. When hanging lining paper, you want to avoid prominent seams by making sure the joints of the lining paper and the wallpaper don’t coincide. You can hang the lining paper vertically if the width of your lining paper is different than the width of your wallpaper. Vertical lining paper can be hung as regular wallpaper. If you choose to hang the lining paper horizontally, a method called “cross lining”, you can be absolutely sure that your vertical seams won’t align.

Bubbles and creases are caused by air bubbles underneath the paper and can be the result of uneven smoothing. This can be avoided by smoothing down the centre of the strip first and then smooth outward. Bubbles that form during hanging can be fixed by lifting the paper up around the bubble and smoothing it back down. If the bubble is not discovered until the wallpaper is dry, it will be difficult to fix without causing a crease in the paper. Bubbles may also be caused by a weak bond with the wall. Avoid this by allowing adequate time for “booking” in the preparation stages. “Booking” the paper activates the adhesive so the paper sticks to the wall evenly.

Removing old wallpaper can be challenging and even after all the paper is gone stubborn paste can remain. Old paste can interfere with the adhesion of your new paper. It is important to remove as much paste as possible before reapplying wallpaper. Most paste should come off with a sponge and hot soapy water. You can also use wet medium-grit sandpaper to remove any paste residue.

Your wallpaper will be delivered in up to 6 business days.

Ground orders will be processed within 24 hours and then shipped via UPS. We also offer 2 Day and Overnight Shipping for added convenience.

Shipping times can vary during busier periods, so please check the individual product page for the most up‑to‑date information.

All orders (excluding sample orders) can be tracked using the tracking number provided on the FedEX website. 

For full details on our cancellation policy, please refer to our Returns page. 

If you have received your order and would like to return it, please contact our Customer Service team on 1-800-554-0887 (Mon-Fri 9am - 5pm EST) and ask for a Returns Authorisation number.

To be eligible for a return/refund, item(s) MUST be returned within 30 days of receipt in their original condition, please do not return opened items as we will be unable to process a refund.

We are unable to refund for items received damaged or opened. If you believe your return item has been damaged in transit, please contact your return courier directly.

Please note: We DO NOT accept returns or exchanges on items which are customized or made to order. This includes Wallpaper Samples, Paint (including tester pots), Curtains, Shades, and Customized Wall Murals. Please contact us at Graham & Brown Support and we can let you know the best way to dispose of these items.

Unfortunately, we are currently unable to offer free returns so all returns are at your own expense.

All returns should be sent to the address below (please specify your order number on all returns):

1. Contact our Customer Service team on 1-800-554-0887 (Mon-Fri 9am - 5pm EST) and ask for a Returns Authorization number

2. Download and complete the returns form and place in your parcel.

3. Reseal your items well

4. Return to: Graham & Brown Returns, Ceva, 80 Micro Drive Jonestown PA 17038

The goods will be deemed returned when received by Graham & Brown, and we will issue a refund as soon as possible.

Returns for any other reason i.e. products are defective, will require us to examine the products prior to refunding the payment. We will do so within a reasonable time period, usually 30 days, and will always inform you of our decision.

Some deep coloured wallpaper may need their edges coloured with a slightly lighter tone of chalk or pastel, to prevent white edges showing. Best way to colour the edges is to do it before hanging the wall mural, by running the crayon up both sides of the paper once it has been cut into individual strips.